Back in the game reserve... it was nice to go back to a place where I knew the lay of the land, metaphorically speaking... the reserve is way too big for a girl with no sense of direction to find her way arounf after only 3 weeks there... however, I will say that I was able to direct my friends correctly when they dropped me off there!
Follow the N2 to Grahamstown, but turn off the nice smooth, impressive motorway, to the dirt track following signs to Patterson, and then to Shamwari, and then to Potes... and then through the gate, that the lock for which was initially described to me as a jigsaw puzzle, and then down the road, and then you will see the various houses that became my world for 6 weeks.
The game ranger, Konrad, loved wathcing the elephants, and after two weeks away, he was having withdrawal symptoms, so my first day back on the reserve was spent looking for as many elephants as we could find, and actually, we found something like 50 of the 60 elephants on the reserve, which was pretty good for day one!
We then went looking for the northern pride of lions, as one had ben looking a bit too skinny... and we found them.. all, of course, except the one we were looking for... oh well..still very exciting!
Around this time, a rhino had been poached on another reserve, and she had a calf, so the calf was taken to the rehab hospital at Shamwari, and we got to see his arrival.
Rhinos are social animals, and so cant be alone, particularly after the traumatic experience of watching his mother be hacked to pieces just for her horn. The vets at the hospital needed to find a surrogate family for the rhino, and who did they find? A jersey cow, an orphaned buffalo, who was being motheres by the buffallo, and an orphaned zebra. The three animals were intorduced to the rhino, who did not take kindly to this, and charged the poor animals relentlessly, to the point that the poor cow got a nasty gash on her head... after a while, they were separated, and a day or so later, a lone donkey took their place, which the rhino seemed to take more kindly to. It was quite a sight!
Fridays, as per usual, are spent in the orphanage, playing with the children in the mornings, a shopping trip in paterson, which usually consisted of bottled water and the essential chocolate bar, and then my afternoons were spent heading to PE, where I spent my weekends with my surrogate famiily!
My second week at the game reserve consisted of a lot of alien vegetation control. This included chopping acacia trees, which are harder to cut than beefwoods, and prickly pears. We also planted tick offs, to help the animals manage the ticks that are around in the summer, and made a watering whole ostrick frienddly, by creating a sloped entrance to help the young ostrich get out!
We also found the female leopard, and even watched her make a kill... the poor kudu didnt know what hit it! We also found a half eaten waterbuck, which the lions had killed earlier... this was not a good week for dead animals, as I witnessed nature take its course out in the bush!
Over the weekend, I had another tour of the local area, and went to Port Alfred, a quaint village on the banks of a river, Bathurst, where I saw pineapples growing for the first time, which, no sarcvasm, did rreally excite me, and Grahamstown, a student town, which is known to have a very good festival in june, i think... yet another reason to come back to this beautiful country!
My final week at Shamwari was another exciting one. We went looking for the cheetah, and found them, and 'walked them.' In the wild, this means, getting out of the protection of the vehicle, and walking in the bush. Standing face to face with these big, powerful cats is certainly an experience not to be missed, although I certainly felt very vulnerable, particularly, as Im sure one was staring straight at me for what felt like a significant period of time!
The next day, we went to the animal hospital where I and another girl babysat the orphaned warthog, wilbur, and the meerkat, stinky, aka, of course, timon and pumba for the morning. That afternoon, we looked for and found the lions, and tarted one of the females, to give her a slow release contraception. Lucky me, in my 6 weeks st the reserve, I got to touch two wile lions!
The next day, we watched the vet examine a limping caracal, and then got to help feed the baby white lion cubs, rhino and warthog. Feeding the lion cubs was probably a highlight for me. There are two of them, and for those of you who dont know, white lions are extremely rare. These cubs' mother rejected them at birth, which is why they are at the rehab centre. They are in an enclosure that is surrrounded by black and green netting, so that their exposure to humans is minimised as they are going to be released back into the wild when they are weaned. Feeding them was therefore a privilege for us lion lovers!
The next day, was my penultimate day, and we got up early, to be out on the reserve for 5.30am. We looked for all the predators, and saw the cheetahs, moving around in an attempt to find something to hunt, the female leopard also patrolling, on the prowl for food, and the male leopard, who we could tell was very close to us but we couldnt see him... leopards being the most illusive cats around!
My last day was spent in paterson, at the orphanage, followed by a more emotional farewell than I was expecting! Sunday I headed to Plettenberg Bay, or Plett to us locals, which is where I now am, missing dinner, so Im off to eat... more soon!
xxxx
Monday, 31 January 2011
The Garden Route, aka, my drive 'home'
So, its been quite a while since I last wrote anything about my adventures, and there have been quite a few since I last wrote!
I decided that, rather than fly back to PE, from cape town, I would drive, what is called the garden route, one of the best drives in the world. I had mixed advice as to whether I should do the drive on my own, or not, but as I met someone who was heading that way anyway, I tagged along, and got away with doing none of the driving, and all the looking!
We did the drive in 2 days, which was way too brief, as most tours do it in 8-10 days. However, I think it worked well for us. The bays leaving cape town are beautiful. I particularly remember Gordon's Bay, which I rather stupidly declined stopping to take a picture of, but it was beautiful!
On the drive, I saw pink water... Im not sure if thats possible, but it certainly looked like pink water, which definitely excited me! We went to Hermanus, which is one of the main whale watching spots on the garden route. Unfortunately, there were no whales, as I just missed the whale season, which is from june to september, but I like how there is an outdoor arena overlooking the ocean, which allows prime whale watching views!
We then detoured a bit to the most southern point of the African continent, called Cape Agullus, and it is here, not cape point, where the two oceans actually meet... although I have now heard a third opnion, that the point where the oceans meet changes depending on the winds, which in the summer blow from the south east, and in the winter, blow from the south west.
Whether the oceqns meet there or not, I still stood at the southern most tip of the continent, and can therefore say that I have also been to the Southern Cape!
We returned to the N2, the garden route road, through, what I was told looks like the Karoo... vast fields of yellow brown grass where the multitude of farmers graze their cattle and sheep.. This stretches out for miles, and in this vaste open space, I was pleased I was not travelling alone!
We stopped briefly for a coffee in Swellendam, juicy information I know, and then continued on our way to Knysna. On the way, we stopped at an old toy factory, and a memorial to the buffalo and cart transport system used by the Dutch a few hundred years ago.
On entering the area around Knysna, you leave the brown, beige grassland and enter into a foresty area. Suddenly you are surrounded by hundreds of tall, green trees, and rivers, and sheer mountain drops into the ocean... now this is the beautiful part of the drive!!
We spent the night in Knysna, overlooking the lagoon, and before heading off the next day, we went to the Knysna heads, to admire the stunning view!
Off we continued, to Tsitsikamma, (no idea if I spelt that right), and Storms River, which is an area of adventure sports, of which includes the worlds highest bungy jump, of 216metres... i went to have a look, and felt sick looking down! Just getting to the jum looks terrifying, as you have to walk on the underside of the bridge before you jump off... If I had any doubts before, I am now certain, that I will not be throwing myself off that bridge!!!
We popped in to Plettenberg Bay, to see where I would be coming after Shamwari, and then continued all the way back to the game reserve, where I got a warm welcome from the game rangers who I had met on my stint there before Xmas.
The drive between PE and CT is about 8 hours if dowwn without stopping... we did it in 2 days, being on the go for about 12 hours each day! An exhausting two days, and I didnt even do the driving!
I decided that, rather than fly back to PE, from cape town, I would drive, what is called the garden route, one of the best drives in the world. I had mixed advice as to whether I should do the drive on my own, or not, but as I met someone who was heading that way anyway, I tagged along, and got away with doing none of the driving, and all the looking!
We did the drive in 2 days, which was way too brief, as most tours do it in 8-10 days. However, I think it worked well for us. The bays leaving cape town are beautiful. I particularly remember Gordon's Bay, which I rather stupidly declined stopping to take a picture of, but it was beautiful!
On the drive, I saw pink water... Im not sure if thats possible, but it certainly looked like pink water, which definitely excited me! We went to Hermanus, which is one of the main whale watching spots on the garden route. Unfortunately, there were no whales, as I just missed the whale season, which is from june to september, but I like how there is an outdoor arena overlooking the ocean, which allows prime whale watching views!
We then detoured a bit to the most southern point of the African continent, called Cape Agullus, and it is here, not cape point, where the two oceans actually meet... although I have now heard a third opnion, that the point where the oceans meet changes depending on the winds, which in the summer blow from the south east, and in the winter, blow from the south west.
Whether the oceqns meet there or not, I still stood at the southern most tip of the continent, and can therefore say that I have also been to the Southern Cape!
We returned to the N2, the garden route road, through, what I was told looks like the Karoo... vast fields of yellow brown grass where the multitude of farmers graze their cattle and sheep.. This stretches out for miles, and in this vaste open space, I was pleased I was not travelling alone!
We stopped briefly for a coffee in Swellendam, juicy information I know, and then continued on our way to Knysna. On the way, we stopped at an old toy factory, and a memorial to the buffalo and cart transport system used by the Dutch a few hundred years ago.
On entering the area around Knysna, you leave the brown, beige grassland and enter into a foresty area. Suddenly you are surrounded by hundreds of tall, green trees, and rivers, and sheer mountain drops into the ocean... now this is the beautiful part of the drive!!
We spent the night in Knysna, overlooking the lagoon, and before heading off the next day, we went to the Knysna heads, to admire the stunning view!
Off we continued, to Tsitsikamma, (no idea if I spelt that right), and Storms River, which is an area of adventure sports, of which includes the worlds highest bungy jump, of 216metres... i went to have a look, and felt sick looking down! Just getting to the jum looks terrifying, as you have to walk on the underside of the bridge before you jump off... If I had any doubts before, I am now certain, that I will not be throwing myself off that bridge!!!
We popped in to Plettenberg Bay, to see where I would be coming after Shamwari, and then continued all the way back to the game reserve, where I got a warm welcome from the game rangers who I had met on my stint there before Xmas.
The drive between PE and CT is about 8 hours if dowwn without stopping... we did it in 2 days, being on the go for about 12 hours each day! An exhausting two days, and I didnt even do the driving!
Sunday, 2 January 2011
Cape Town and Western Cape
As I come to the end of my time in the western cape, to head back east into the bush, I thoight I'd better update you all as to my adventures.
Life here in the west is very different from life in the east. For one, I am on the caist, and both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans are fairly easily accessible! Although are absolutely freezing, so the sunbathing does not include swimming... at least not in the oceans!
For those of you who dont know, cape town sits in the bowl of table mountain, which provides a very dramatic backdrop to a beautiful city.
For those who know my holiday habits, which usually consist of finding a sun lounger, sitting in it, and moving only to ensure that I am getting maximum tan, you will be very surprised by my behaviour over the last two weeks...I certainly have been!
I think I have been quite a good tourist! I have done both city bus tours, which include table mountain, a castle in the centre of the city, The World of Birds, (the largest aviary in Africa), and Kirstenbosch, (the botanical gardens). Kirstenbosch is set in table mountain, with fabulous flora, and even some fauna as well! The views are stunning, and seem to be a great place for the concerts that they hold there... shame I didnt make it to one... but next time!!
I have also done a tour of Cape Point and the cape of good hope, which is the most south western point of the continent, and despite popular belief, is not the point where the two oceans meet...Stunning nonetheless!
I went to Stellenbosch, the wine region, and partook in a wine tasting! That was fun, and I even impressed myself by actually being able to taste the green pepper in the white wine we drank, and the chocolate in the red wine! My palate is now significantly more honed! lol...
I then went with some friends round the other side of my mountain, to Muizenberg, Fishhoek, and Simon's Town. The plan was to brace the south easterly wind, and have a swim, but as we were about to don swimming costumes, a horn was blown to signal the presence of a shark! We rushed to the shore to try and spot it, but my eyesight was shifted when the blue bottles, a very nice name for the lethal jellyfish, portugese men of war, were pointed out to me. I decided to focus on where I put my feet, rather than look for the shark, which evaded us!
I have also been to a large number of museums, which is very unlike me! The slave lodge, District Six museum, South Africa Museum, the Jewish Museum, and the Holocaust museum, and Bertrand House. And Robben Island.
I have watched the sunset over the atlantic, and seen clouds that lie so low that before you get to sea level, you can see above them anbd below them... I've never seen anything like it..but what is even more amazing is table mountain's table cloth. The clouds hang off the moutain like a table cloth would.
They say that you have to go up table mountain as soon as you get a chance, when the wind is light. The south easterly wind... called the cape doctor because it blows the soot away can be so strong that it also blows rooves off the houses, and causes bush fires, (of which there was one a few days ago, and we watched the helicopters dropping water over it).. whenever it blows, table mountain is closed because it is too dangerous for the cable car to work..
Of course, I decided to wait to go up in the cable car for a friend to arrive, so I wouldnt go up alone..but unfortunately, I missed my chance. the wind came, and the cable car has been closed for about a week now... However, I did hike up the mountain... I thought the guide would cancel the hike, because of the wind, and the heave cloud hanging over the mountain..but no, she said we could hike the back of the mountain. So we climbed 750 metres above sea level, scaling one of the twelve apostles, castilles peak. As my facebook status implies, we literally walked in the clouds... we lost the view... and got very wet from the mositure in the clouds...
The mountain top is like a garden... there are more plants growing there naturally than in the whole of the British Isles...
It amazes me what nature can do without the help of man!
So tomorrow morning, Im heading East along the garden route, doing a whistle stop tour of what is said to be the most beautiful drive in the world..heading back towards Port Elizabeth and Shamwarik where I hope I'll get to see the cheetah cubs that were born before I left the last time!
Wishing you all the best for 2011! Lots of love xxxx
Life here in the west is very different from life in the east. For one, I am on the caist, and both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans are fairly easily accessible! Although are absolutely freezing, so the sunbathing does not include swimming... at least not in the oceans!
For those of you who dont know, cape town sits in the bowl of table mountain, which provides a very dramatic backdrop to a beautiful city.
For those who know my holiday habits, which usually consist of finding a sun lounger, sitting in it, and moving only to ensure that I am getting maximum tan, you will be very surprised by my behaviour over the last two weeks...I certainly have been!
I think I have been quite a good tourist! I have done both city bus tours, which include table mountain, a castle in the centre of the city, The World of Birds, (the largest aviary in Africa), and Kirstenbosch, (the botanical gardens). Kirstenbosch is set in table mountain, with fabulous flora, and even some fauna as well! The views are stunning, and seem to be a great place for the concerts that they hold there... shame I didnt make it to one... but next time!!
I have also done a tour of Cape Point and the cape of good hope, which is the most south western point of the continent, and despite popular belief, is not the point where the two oceans meet...Stunning nonetheless!
I went to Stellenbosch, the wine region, and partook in a wine tasting! That was fun, and I even impressed myself by actually being able to taste the green pepper in the white wine we drank, and the chocolate in the red wine! My palate is now significantly more honed! lol...
I then went with some friends round the other side of my mountain, to Muizenberg, Fishhoek, and Simon's Town. The plan was to brace the south easterly wind, and have a swim, but as we were about to don swimming costumes, a horn was blown to signal the presence of a shark! We rushed to the shore to try and spot it, but my eyesight was shifted when the blue bottles, a very nice name for the lethal jellyfish, portugese men of war, were pointed out to me. I decided to focus on where I put my feet, rather than look for the shark, which evaded us!
I have also been to a large number of museums, which is very unlike me! The slave lodge, District Six museum, South Africa Museum, the Jewish Museum, and the Holocaust museum, and Bertrand House. And Robben Island.
I have watched the sunset over the atlantic, and seen clouds that lie so low that before you get to sea level, you can see above them anbd below them... I've never seen anything like it..but what is even more amazing is table mountain's table cloth. The clouds hang off the moutain like a table cloth would.
They say that you have to go up table mountain as soon as you get a chance, when the wind is light. The south easterly wind... called the cape doctor because it blows the soot away can be so strong that it also blows rooves off the houses, and causes bush fires, (of which there was one a few days ago, and we watched the helicopters dropping water over it).. whenever it blows, table mountain is closed because it is too dangerous for the cable car to work..
Of course, I decided to wait to go up in the cable car for a friend to arrive, so I wouldnt go up alone..but unfortunately, I missed my chance. the wind came, and the cable car has been closed for about a week now... However, I did hike up the mountain... I thought the guide would cancel the hike, because of the wind, and the heave cloud hanging over the mountain..but no, she said we could hike the back of the mountain. So we climbed 750 metres above sea level, scaling one of the twelve apostles, castilles peak. As my facebook status implies, we literally walked in the clouds... we lost the view... and got very wet from the mositure in the clouds...
The mountain top is like a garden... there are more plants growing there naturally than in the whole of the British Isles...
It amazes me what nature can do without the help of man!
So tomorrow morning, Im heading East along the garden route, doing a whistle stop tour of what is said to be the most beautiful drive in the world..heading back towards Port Elizabeth and Shamwarik where I hope I'll get to see the cheetah cubs that were born before I left the last time!
Wishing you all the best for 2011! Lots of love xxxx
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