New Zealand, described as the youngest country on earth...
its a strange phenomena, and Im not sure how it happens, but some places in the world have a quality....
Much as I did in Ayers Rock, I got off the airoplane in auckland, so called the city of sails because more people here than anywhere in the world have boats, with a smile on my face...
It was dark, and I could see nothing of the city, and still, I smiled...
The home of my childhood heroine, I feel like everywhere I go, I am walking in her footsteps, and so I feel safe.
I am staying in a place next door to what I believed was the only orthodox synagogue in the city, so I went in on friday, the day after I arrived, to make sure I would be able to attend the services. A south african, who now lives here, told me that people come to new zealand when they want to get away from the hectic life of the rest of the world... people are pretty easy going, crime is low, and the city is a pretty safe one...
While the Brits sent the convivts to Australia, they sent the middle class to new zealand. And when faced with rain forest, they had to work together to make the land habitable... men and women were treated as equals, which has made new zealnad a leader in womens rights, and equality... even the whites and the local mauris agreed to live here as equals...
I spent friday afternoon looking out at the city from the Sky Tower, the tallest building in the southern hemisphere, so high that it would take 24 minutes to climb the over a thousand stairs... luckily there was a lift!!!
I had a wuick whisk round the Auckland museum before heading back to prepare for what was a very quiet and peaceful sabbath...
On sunday, today, I did a tour to Piha beach, which, because of the iron, from the volcano there, has black sand.
we then walked through the rainforest, full of silver ferns, and kauru trees, the oldest of which (which I did not see, as it further north), is 2000 yrs old, 50 metres tall and 18 metres in diameter... I saw trees half this tall, and they were impressive to look at, so that one must be beyond words...
We climbed the rain forest path to the top of the waterfall, where I was encouraged to go swimming... because I am that crazy, I did... in the freezing water, on a cool day...It was actually quite invigorating.. although I was pleased to get dressed again afterwards!!
and so ended my few days in auckland, before I head north to do this horse riding course for the next few days... now we'll see how crazy I really am, and how well my legs can survive this of all experiences....
more from the other side of what may be agony!
Sunday, 27 March 2011
Melbourne, my last Ozzie stop
On monday I took yet another plane to Melbourne, the capital of Victoria.
I was met almost instantly I landed by a friend's grandmother, who took me around town. We went to Melbourne Port, and had a coffee looking out at the harbour, on what Im pretty sure is the Tasman Sea cost, as the boat that goes to Tasmania leaves from there.
It was a lovely and relaxed introduction to life in Melbourne, which is known as the cultural centre of Australia. Melbourne was described to me as being quite European, and it is true that I did not have much time in the city, but it did not feel too European to me.
After that first day, I left the city, and headed out on a tour of the Great Ocean Rd.
Our first stop was at the Rockery, where we told we were going for a walk. Now, given the previous walks I had been on, I decided it would be sensible to swap my flip flops for my trainers. After doing this, and beginning the walk down the many steps to the beach, to look at these rock formations in the middle of the Southern Ocean, I realised that perhaps me flip flops would have been sufficient foot wear. Nonetheless, I carried on my journey.
Now, those who know me will know that I cannot resist the feel of sand between my toes, and so, of course, I took off my shoes and socks and felt the sand in between my toes. Now the Southern Ocean is a powerful ocean, and the tide seemed to be coming in. A few times, we had to run up from the waters edge, but I generally managed to stay dry. Until....
I put my shoes, with my socks, down on the sand to take a picture, when a big wave came up, and not only soaked me to my knees, but also almost washed my shoes out to sea. I had a heart sinking moment when the water subsided and I could only see one shoe, but luckily, a moment on my hands and knees meant that I was able to see and grab the other shoe! Need less to say, I didnt put my shoes down again!!!
We saw the 12 Apostles, more rock formations, that were once called the Sow and Piglets, London Bridge, another rock formation, although the bridge has now fallen down, went to the sight of many a ship wreck, and walked, in my sodden trainers through a rain forest...
We spent the night in a small town, the name of which I have forgotten, and started the following day feeding wild King parrots in a national park. they are surpisingly gentle as they kling to your hands, hair, or head and eat the seeds we held.. we saw wild koala, which is much more satisfying than seeing them in a zoo.
We drove the Great ocean rd, which was beautiful, with its green rolling hills that meet the blue ocean.. we spent the afternoon in a wildlife park, and then went to penguin island, which is the home of the smallest penguin in the world, known as the little penguin, which is only 17 cm tall.
On the way there, we saw wild wallabies, again, much nicer than seeing them in a zoo... As night fell, we filled the stalls on the beach to watch the penguins come in from their 3/4 day journey to find food at sea... on some nights, over a thousand penguins come in, on this night, however, only about 50 came in, but nonetheless, it was a pretty remarkable sight.
we returned to melbourne at about 11.30pm, and after a quick drink at the casino, where i betted away someone else's money, (at his insistence), I called it a night, and went back to my room, to pack my bag yet again, for yet another airoplane!
As I leave australia, I contemplate what I learnt:
1) Perth is to Western Australia, what Sydney is to New South wales, and Melbourne is to Victoria, (capital cities)
2) Perth is by far the prettiest of those cities
3) I had to contend with more bugs in australia than I did in the african bush
4) australian vegetation seems to survive any disaster, including bush fires...
I was met almost instantly I landed by a friend's grandmother, who took me around town. We went to Melbourne Port, and had a coffee looking out at the harbour, on what Im pretty sure is the Tasman Sea cost, as the boat that goes to Tasmania leaves from there.
It was a lovely and relaxed introduction to life in Melbourne, which is known as the cultural centre of Australia. Melbourne was described to me as being quite European, and it is true that I did not have much time in the city, but it did not feel too European to me.
After that first day, I left the city, and headed out on a tour of the Great Ocean Rd.
Our first stop was at the Rockery, where we told we were going for a walk. Now, given the previous walks I had been on, I decided it would be sensible to swap my flip flops for my trainers. After doing this, and beginning the walk down the many steps to the beach, to look at these rock formations in the middle of the Southern Ocean, I realised that perhaps me flip flops would have been sufficient foot wear. Nonetheless, I carried on my journey.
Now, those who know me will know that I cannot resist the feel of sand between my toes, and so, of course, I took off my shoes and socks and felt the sand in between my toes. Now the Southern Ocean is a powerful ocean, and the tide seemed to be coming in. A few times, we had to run up from the waters edge, but I generally managed to stay dry. Until....
I put my shoes, with my socks, down on the sand to take a picture, when a big wave came up, and not only soaked me to my knees, but also almost washed my shoes out to sea. I had a heart sinking moment when the water subsided and I could only see one shoe, but luckily, a moment on my hands and knees meant that I was able to see and grab the other shoe! Need less to say, I didnt put my shoes down again!!!
We saw the 12 Apostles, more rock formations, that were once called the Sow and Piglets, London Bridge, another rock formation, although the bridge has now fallen down, went to the sight of many a ship wreck, and walked, in my sodden trainers through a rain forest...
We spent the night in a small town, the name of which I have forgotten, and started the following day feeding wild King parrots in a national park. they are surpisingly gentle as they kling to your hands, hair, or head and eat the seeds we held.. we saw wild koala, which is much more satisfying than seeing them in a zoo.
We drove the Great ocean rd, which was beautiful, with its green rolling hills that meet the blue ocean.. we spent the afternoon in a wildlife park, and then went to penguin island, which is the home of the smallest penguin in the world, known as the little penguin, which is only 17 cm tall.
On the way there, we saw wild wallabies, again, much nicer than seeing them in a zoo... As night fell, we filled the stalls on the beach to watch the penguins come in from their 3/4 day journey to find food at sea... on some nights, over a thousand penguins come in, on this night, however, only about 50 came in, but nonetheless, it was a pretty remarkable sight.
we returned to melbourne at about 11.30pm, and after a quick drink at the casino, where i betted away someone else's money, (at his insistence), I called it a night, and went back to my room, to pack my bag yet again, for yet another airoplane!
As I leave australia, I contemplate what I learnt:
1) Perth is to Western Australia, what Sydney is to New South wales, and Melbourne is to Victoria, (capital cities)
2) Perth is by far the prettiest of those cities
3) I had to contend with more bugs in australia than I did in the african bush
4) australian vegetation seems to survive any disaster, including bush fires...
Monday, 21 March 2011
Sydney, On the Pacific Ocean or the Tasman Sea? The map says Tasman, the locals say Pacific...mmmm
Three hours on an airoplane and I was in a different world...
The east coast of Australia. I should comment, that leaving the Red Centre took at least an hour and a half of the flight...
So, after nearly four months of being in isolation with nature, or in smaller cities, I found arriving in Sydney quite a shock... the landscape was green, the city was big, the sky was grey... it could have been London....only its about 23 hours flight away from London...
Arriving in Sydney brought the joy of seeing a most beloved friend. I dont think I have appreciated this joy before...and it only took four months of being away from all, and everyone I know!
The first evening was spent in the Harbour, enjoyng the sights of the Opera House and the bridge, which i sadly did not endeavour to climb, although I heard that harnesses were involved!
The second day, I raced off to see the Blue Mountains. On a sunny day, the mountains appear blue because of the way the light refracts off the oils the eucalyptus trees give off... on this thursday however, the sky was grey, again, and so there was no blue in sight. For most of the morning, the mist covered most of the view, but wiht some positive thinking, by the afternoon, the mist began to lift, and we were able to see some of the mountains magnificance!
We took a cable car down the mountain, and as we went below the mist, we were able to see the apparently famous three sisters formation, the orphan, and some others whose names I've forgotten. Like Ayers rock, these formations all have aboriginal stories connected to them. We then took the steepest train in the world I think back up the mountain, and that is an experience not to be missed.. though I have to say, with no side and no seat belt, I did think i would fall out of the carriage!
We also went to an animal sanctuary, where I got to touch a koala, and see a wombat which was very exciting because I dont think I've ever even seen a picture of one!
The day finished with a ferry ride back into the harbour, so i got to see sydney harbour from the sea.
Friday was spent at the zoo, which prides itself of being the zoo with the best view in the world... and it is a fab view over sydney harbour.
Saturday, the sabbath, was spent with a family in Bondi.. where we all got wet by the rain which pelted down from friday afternoon til I left today... people think that coming from England I should be used to it, but Im not!!! That was some rain! At least I didnt feel too bad about having a shower!
Sunday was the jewish festival of purim, and amidst the festivities of the day, I was able to while away a few hours on the famous Bondi Beach with my friend... and the sun even came out to play with us for a bit!!
So, did I escape the bugs?? Predominantly yes, although I did have to share my room with a cockroach last night... but thank Gd not my bed... and I didn't squeal!
And today, monday, I am here, in melbourne... so more from me top side of this tour that Im doing tomorrow along the Great Ocean Rd,... Im off to pack.....again
The east coast of Australia. I should comment, that leaving the Red Centre took at least an hour and a half of the flight...
So, after nearly four months of being in isolation with nature, or in smaller cities, I found arriving in Sydney quite a shock... the landscape was green, the city was big, the sky was grey... it could have been London....only its about 23 hours flight away from London...
Arriving in Sydney brought the joy of seeing a most beloved friend. I dont think I have appreciated this joy before...and it only took four months of being away from all, and everyone I know!
The first evening was spent in the Harbour, enjoyng the sights of the Opera House and the bridge, which i sadly did not endeavour to climb, although I heard that harnesses were involved!
The second day, I raced off to see the Blue Mountains. On a sunny day, the mountains appear blue because of the way the light refracts off the oils the eucalyptus trees give off... on this thursday however, the sky was grey, again, and so there was no blue in sight. For most of the morning, the mist covered most of the view, but wiht some positive thinking, by the afternoon, the mist began to lift, and we were able to see some of the mountains magnificance!
We took a cable car down the mountain, and as we went below the mist, we were able to see the apparently famous three sisters formation, the orphan, and some others whose names I've forgotten. Like Ayers rock, these formations all have aboriginal stories connected to them. We then took the steepest train in the world I think back up the mountain, and that is an experience not to be missed.. though I have to say, with no side and no seat belt, I did think i would fall out of the carriage!
We also went to an animal sanctuary, where I got to touch a koala, and see a wombat which was very exciting because I dont think I've ever even seen a picture of one!
The day finished with a ferry ride back into the harbour, so i got to see sydney harbour from the sea.
Friday was spent at the zoo, which prides itself of being the zoo with the best view in the world... and it is a fab view over sydney harbour.
Saturday, the sabbath, was spent with a family in Bondi.. where we all got wet by the rain which pelted down from friday afternoon til I left today... people think that coming from England I should be used to it, but Im not!!! That was some rain! At least I didnt feel too bad about having a shower!
Sunday was the jewish festival of purim, and amidst the festivities of the day, I was able to while away a few hours on the famous Bondi Beach with my friend... and the sun even came out to play with us for a bit!!
So, did I escape the bugs?? Predominantly yes, although I did have to share my room with a cockroach last night... but thank Gd not my bed... and I didn't squeal!
And today, monday, I am here, in melbourne... so more from me top side of this tour that Im doing tomorrow along the Great Ocean Rd,... Im off to pack.....again
Tuesday, 15 March 2011
The Red Centre
The red centre, so aptly named, as the rock and the sand and almost everything the eye can see is a fabulous red colour. It is caused by iron that is brought in by the bad weather systems from the west of the country.
I got off the airoplane, after a two hour flight, and a one and half hour time change, with a smile on my face. I am so used to seeing the blue/green contrast of the sea/vegetation, that there feels like there is something special about the red/green contrast of the red centre.
I got off the plane, and I was reminded of the line in the film Lord of the Rings, were Frodo says to Sam, "I'm glad you with me Sam wyse gamgy, here at the end of all things." Only, no-one was with me, and I wasn't at the end of all things... It felt like i was in the middle of all things.. it felt like I was in the middle of the world, although i know that geographically, i was far from it...
Psychologically, this was a very pleasant feeling... a feeling Im not sure I could describe with words.
The thing to do here is to watch the sun rise and set over the Olgas, and Ayers Rock, so thats what I did, on my first night in town. Despite the gathering cloud, I marched up a red sand dune, noted the red sand in my shoes, and waited with camera and fly net in hand for the sun to set. I was not to be disappointed on this night, the clouds cleared enough for the sky to go an intense array of pinks, oranges, purples and golds. These, for me, are the colours of life itself, and somehow have a power to feed my soul...again a smile on my face...
The next day I started a two day tour of the area... we went first to the Olgas, aka, Kata Tjuta, translated from the aboriginee, as 'many heads.' here there are 36 rock formations, and we, in the rain, walked some of them. The desert rain has pros and cons: Pros: it isnt as hot, so the risk of dehydration is reduced, (did you know more people die from dehydration in australia than from dangerous animals... about 1person a week have to go to hospital in this part of australia), the plants are greener, the flowers open, and the smells are more intense... Cons: the rocks are slippery and wet, which means that it is easier to lose your footing, and it means that after climbing an almost sheer rock face, with hands and feet, the safest way back down is on ones bottom, which means that I got very wet!
Sunset that night was a wash out... the grey rain clouds obscured any other colour.
The rain, a camp ground, and no noise after 10pm meant an early night as we were all rising at 4.30 am to make sure we were ready to watch the sun rise at 6.45 am, ( we had to get to the sunrise watch spot).
The clouds parted just enough to see some pale yellows and pinks in the sky... I do have to say that the best sunrise I have ever seen, by a long shot, was over the old city of Jerusalem, when the whole sky became an orangey gold... every other sunrise I have seen has paled in comparison...
we then walked around the base of Uluru, (the largest single rock structure in the world), the aboriginal for ayers rock, which like Kata Tjuta is aborignal sacred land and should be treated with respect. the aboriginals believe that their ancestors carved the mountains into the way we see them today, and each rock pattern or formation has a story. the aboriginals guard their stories well, only imparting some knowledge to other aboriginals, andthen only when they have proven themselves worthy of that knowledge...
I spent the rest of the day fighting insectsand bugs that have found themselves into my shoes, my ears, (thank Gd only temporarily) my computer, and I pray not my bed!!
As I come to the end of this part of my journey, I have to reflect on what further I have learnt:
1) Desert scenary gets tiring after a while!
2) The terms, 'easy' and 'difficult' are linked only to experience and their use changes very quickly as experience changes.
3) I dont like bugs!
4) I dont like bugs!
5) I dont like bugs!
6) I never knew I could squeal in such a high pitched manner in response to a bug..
Even as I sit here writing this, I have had at least two bugs jump on my head causing me to jump up and teach the others around me the bug dance that we choreographed on the tour up to exmouth, which consists of flapping ones arms around ones face and then using all of ones fingers possible to block nose, eyes, ears and mouth to prevent some form of bug inhalation...
As beautiful as I have found this part of the world, I am looking forward to reaching sydney, where I am headed tomorrow, where i think the bug situation will be significantly more manageable, and where, perhaps I will be able to choreograph a new dance.
And so I head to bed to fight the bugs in my dreams! And not in my bed... i hope... i really hope... i really really hope.....
I got off the airoplane, after a two hour flight, and a one and half hour time change, with a smile on my face. I am so used to seeing the blue/green contrast of the sea/vegetation, that there feels like there is something special about the red/green contrast of the red centre.
I got off the plane, and I was reminded of the line in the film Lord of the Rings, were Frodo says to Sam, "I'm glad you with me Sam wyse gamgy, here at the end of all things." Only, no-one was with me, and I wasn't at the end of all things... It felt like i was in the middle of all things.. it felt like I was in the middle of the world, although i know that geographically, i was far from it...
Psychologically, this was a very pleasant feeling... a feeling Im not sure I could describe with words.
The thing to do here is to watch the sun rise and set over the Olgas, and Ayers Rock, so thats what I did, on my first night in town. Despite the gathering cloud, I marched up a red sand dune, noted the red sand in my shoes, and waited with camera and fly net in hand for the sun to set. I was not to be disappointed on this night, the clouds cleared enough for the sky to go an intense array of pinks, oranges, purples and golds. These, for me, are the colours of life itself, and somehow have a power to feed my soul...again a smile on my face...
The next day I started a two day tour of the area... we went first to the Olgas, aka, Kata Tjuta, translated from the aboriginee, as 'many heads.' here there are 36 rock formations, and we, in the rain, walked some of them. The desert rain has pros and cons: Pros: it isnt as hot, so the risk of dehydration is reduced, (did you know more people die from dehydration in australia than from dangerous animals... about 1person a week have to go to hospital in this part of australia), the plants are greener, the flowers open, and the smells are more intense... Cons: the rocks are slippery and wet, which means that it is easier to lose your footing, and it means that after climbing an almost sheer rock face, with hands and feet, the safest way back down is on ones bottom, which means that I got very wet!
Sunset that night was a wash out... the grey rain clouds obscured any other colour.
The rain, a camp ground, and no noise after 10pm meant an early night as we were all rising at 4.30 am to make sure we were ready to watch the sun rise at 6.45 am, ( we had to get to the sunrise watch spot).
The clouds parted just enough to see some pale yellows and pinks in the sky... I do have to say that the best sunrise I have ever seen, by a long shot, was over the old city of Jerusalem, when the whole sky became an orangey gold... every other sunrise I have seen has paled in comparison...
we then walked around the base of Uluru, (the largest single rock structure in the world), the aboriginal for ayers rock, which like Kata Tjuta is aborignal sacred land and should be treated with respect. the aboriginals believe that their ancestors carved the mountains into the way we see them today, and each rock pattern or formation has a story. the aboriginals guard their stories well, only imparting some knowledge to other aboriginals, andthen only when they have proven themselves worthy of that knowledge...
I spent the rest of the day fighting insectsand bugs that have found themselves into my shoes, my ears, (thank Gd only temporarily) my computer, and I pray not my bed!!
As I come to the end of this part of my journey, I have to reflect on what further I have learnt:
1) Desert scenary gets tiring after a while!
2) The terms, 'easy' and 'difficult' are linked only to experience and their use changes very quickly as experience changes.
3) I dont like bugs!
4) I dont like bugs!
5) I dont like bugs!
6) I never knew I could squeal in such a high pitched manner in response to a bug..
Even as I sit here writing this, I have had at least two bugs jump on my head causing me to jump up and teach the others around me the bug dance that we choreographed on the tour up to exmouth, which consists of flapping ones arms around ones face and then using all of ones fingers possible to block nose, eyes, ears and mouth to prevent some form of bug inhalation...
As beautiful as I have found this part of the world, I am looking forward to reaching sydney, where I am headed tomorrow, where i think the bug situation will be significantly more manageable, and where, perhaps I will be able to choreograph a new dance.
And so I head to bed to fight the bugs in my dreams! And not in my bed... i hope... i really hope... i really really hope.....
Australia so far...
Perth: the most isolated capital city in the world
It has been over three weeks now since I left my homeland in south africa, and headed for the land down under! If you think the african sun is strong, you have not been to australia! the sun here has an intensity here like no where else i have been!
I began my australian odyssey on the west coast, in the district known as known as western australia. This continent is so big that Perth is closer to Singapore than to australia's own capital of canberra... hence the need for its government system!
Western australia is the largest state in the continent, in which live only 2 million people, 1.5 of which live in perth.
Perth itself is situated on the banks of the Swan river, and is a very clean, well kept city. The thing that struck me is that the lawns are all immaculately kept, much as one would see in Oxford or Cambridge, england. The difference being that the australians are allowed to walk on their grass!! Gd help you if you do so in England... that certainly is frowned upon!
So, what did I do in this most isolated city? I went to Kings Park, where you have fabulous views of the city and the river, I went to the Bell tower, Perth's answer to the millenium, I took the ferry along the river to Fremantle and Rottnest, and went to Cottelsloe and Trigg beaches, where the wind and sun cream meant I was left looking like a sand monster, much like Harry, the dog from that children's book I suddenly seem to remember...At trigg beach, I was given my first lesson is boogy boarding... its fun when it works...not such fun when you try to go over a wave you should go under and get dragged under anyway... i definitely drank more of the Indian Ocean than I was supposed to that day! But it certainly cleared my sinuses!!
The 35 plus degree heat day and night, and the lack of air conditioning in my room meant that I was very lethargic and by no means as energetic as I was in cape town... This lethargy was encouraged by there being a limited amount to do.
As such, I was happy to begin the tour up the west coast to a place called Exmouth.
On this tour, we visited the Pinnacles desert, where limestone formations protrude from the desert sand, which unlike the beach sand which is white, is bright yellow. The contrast made for a nice picture! We then drove to a sand dune, where, if the fancy took you, you could sit on a sled and and slide down a dune, known as sand boarding, much like to taboggoning to those of us from cooler climates! I decided against the idea of covering myself with sand, and so became one of the designated photographers of the group!
The next day, we arrived at Kalbarri national park, where in this delightful 40 degree heat, we went for a walk. All these walks begin like a shabbos (saturday) afternoon stroll, but then suddenly, you find yourself scrambling up and down bolders in a most un shabbosdick (sabbath like) manner! Because of all the floods, river were flowing that have been dry for many a year!
We then had the option to abseil down a 25 metre wall, and much to my surprise, I found myself handing over the money, and strapping myself into a harnass. After a minor freak out, and almost backing out of the whole affair, I actually walked abseiled down the wall! Once you get passed the ledge, it actually becomes quite fun, despite the jelly like legs at the end of the experience! Clambering up was another ordeal, and I rather wished I could be hosited back up.. sadly that wasnt to be possible, so clambering it was! From tbere, we went to a beach covered entirely by shells. I must the colour of the water was an unreal turquoise...
We then went to Nature's window, which is a window shaped rock formation caused by wind erosion...a great photo opportunity! We ended the day in a resort called Monkey Mia, which is quite an exciting tourist trap for us animal lovers!
In the 2960s, the fishermen started to feed the wild dolphins, and this continues today, although in a manner that does not mean they have to stop hunting, so they remain wild. The tourists, myself included, line the sea shore, knee deep in water, while 5 dolphins are fed 1 fish each. It is there choice to come, and there choice to take the fish. On that day, these particular Indo-pacific dolphins were feeling quite emotional, as noted by the pink colour one of the calf's turned, and he came along and brushed past some people's legs. I was lucky enough to have the very tip of his tale brush past my leg, and as explained, it does feel like a hard boiled egg minus its shell!
From there, we went to see the stramadolites... now my knowledge of these is not very great, but my understanding is that they are very old, living, breathing rocks.. you can even see the oxygen bubbles they produce!
Now this day was made slightly uncomfortable, to put it mildly, by the umber of flies that were around. they are attracted to the salt on skin, and come and pester you in a way previously unthought of! I understand why fly nets are a neccessity in western australia, and, as I was to find out, in the centre as well!
We crossed the tropic of capricorn to get to the Ningaloo reef. This was the highlight of the trip for me, for more reasons than it was where I had my first ever night time swim. Both in Coral bay and in Exmouth, you can swim on the reef. It is the largest reef in the world that you can swim to from the shore, and although I have heard it is not as colourful as the great barrier reef, it does contain more wildlife. I spent the day snorkelling on the outer reef, where I was able to marvel at nature's beauty... the fish are an array of colours that one would think could only come from the imagination! We then had the privilege to snorkel with mantar rays, giant and harmless rays, and to snorkel on the cleanign station of the reef, where reef sharks come to be cleaned by the cleaning fish. There I was, in the sea, with five sharks swimming below me... unreal and amazing!!!!
In exmouth we snorkled the inner reef, (coral bay was the outer reef), and saw more beautiful fish and coral. I then spent the next two days working hard on my sun tan, (dont worry factor 30+ was worn at all times), and then we headed back to Perth.
On the way back, we stopped off at the Hutt River Province. This is a seperate country, run by Prince lesley and princess shirley. he is a man who declared war on australia in the 1970s as the australian government tried to tell him how much wheat he could grow on his own land, and legitimately he declared his own country, and no longer pays tax in australia. We all had our passports stamped and everything! Our final stop before returning to the civilisation of perth was an animal rehab sanctuary, where i got to hold a baby kangaroo, and feed a whole group of kangaroos... it amazed me how soft they were!
After having seen mainly desert for a week, the city lights of perth were a welcome sight! So, back in perth I whiled away a few more days before heading to the red centre of australia, which to my surprise is in the northern territory of the country...
It has been over three weeks now since I left my homeland in south africa, and headed for the land down under! If you think the african sun is strong, you have not been to australia! the sun here has an intensity here like no where else i have been!
I began my australian odyssey on the west coast, in the district known as known as western australia. This continent is so big that Perth is closer to Singapore than to australia's own capital of canberra... hence the need for its government system!
Western australia is the largest state in the continent, in which live only 2 million people, 1.5 of which live in perth.
Perth itself is situated on the banks of the Swan river, and is a very clean, well kept city. The thing that struck me is that the lawns are all immaculately kept, much as one would see in Oxford or Cambridge, england. The difference being that the australians are allowed to walk on their grass!! Gd help you if you do so in England... that certainly is frowned upon!
So, what did I do in this most isolated city? I went to Kings Park, where you have fabulous views of the city and the river, I went to the Bell tower, Perth's answer to the millenium, I took the ferry along the river to Fremantle and Rottnest, and went to Cottelsloe and Trigg beaches, where the wind and sun cream meant I was left looking like a sand monster, much like Harry, the dog from that children's book I suddenly seem to remember...At trigg beach, I was given my first lesson is boogy boarding... its fun when it works...not such fun when you try to go over a wave you should go under and get dragged under anyway... i definitely drank more of the Indian Ocean than I was supposed to that day! But it certainly cleared my sinuses!!
The 35 plus degree heat day and night, and the lack of air conditioning in my room meant that I was very lethargic and by no means as energetic as I was in cape town... This lethargy was encouraged by there being a limited amount to do.
As such, I was happy to begin the tour up the west coast to a place called Exmouth.
On this tour, we visited the Pinnacles desert, where limestone formations protrude from the desert sand, which unlike the beach sand which is white, is bright yellow. The contrast made for a nice picture! We then drove to a sand dune, where, if the fancy took you, you could sit on a sled and and slide down a dune, known as sand boarding, much like to taboggoning to those of us from cooler climates! I decided against the idea of covering myself with sand, and so became one of the designated photographers of the group!
The next day, we arrived at Kalbarri national park, where in this delightful 40 degree heat, we went for a walk. All these walks begin like a shabbos (saturday) afternoon stroll, but then suddenly, you find yourself scrambling up and down bolders in a most un shabbosdick (sabbath like) manner! Because of all the floods, river were flowing that have been dry for many a year!
We then had the option to abseil down a 25 metre wall, and much to my surprise, I found myself handing over the money, and strapping myself into a harnass. After a minor freak out, and almost backing out of the whole affair, I actually walked abseiled down the wall! Once you get passed the ledge, it actually becomes quite fun, despite the jelly like legs at the end of the experience! Clambering up was another ordeal, and I rather wished I could be hosited back up.. sadly that wasnt to be possible, so clambering it was! From tbere, we went to a beach covered entirely by shells. I must the colour of the water was an unreal turquoise...
We then went to Nature's window, which is a window shaped rock formation caused by wind erosion...a great photo opportunity! We ended the day in a resort called Monkey Mia, which is quite an exciting tourist trap for us animal lovers!
In the 2960s, the fishermen started to feed the wild dolphins, and this continues today, although in a manner that does not mean they have to stop hunting, so they remain wild. The tourists, myself included, line the sea shore, knee deep in water, while 5 dolphins are fed 1 fish each. It is there choice to come, and there choice to take the fish. On that day, these particular Indo-pacific dolphins were feeling quite emotional, as noted by the pink colour one of the calf's turned, and he came along and brushed past some people's legs. I was lucky enough to have the very tip of his tale brush past my leg, and as explained, it does feel like a hard boiled egg minus its shell!
From there, we went to see the stramadolites... now my knowledge of these is not very great, but my understanding is that they are very old, living, breathing rocks.. you can even see the oxygen bubbles they produce!
Now this day was made slightly uncomfortable, to put it mildly, by the umber of flies that were around. they are attracted to the salt on skin, and come and pester you in a way previously unthought of! I understand why fly nets are a neccessity in western australia, and, as I was to find out, in the centre as well!
We crossed the tropic of capricorn to get to the Ningaloo reef. This was the highlight of the trip for me, for more reasons than it was where I had my first ever night time swim. Both in Coral bay and in Exmouth, you can swim on the reef. It is the largest reef in the world that you can swim to from the shore, and although I have heard it is not as colourful as the great barrier reef, it does contain more wildlife. I spent the day snorkelling on the outer reef, where I was able to marvel at nature's beauty... the fish are an array of colours that one would think could only come from the imagination! We then had the privilege to snorkel with mantar rays, giant and harmless rays, and to snorkel on the cleanign station of the reef, where reef sharks come to be cleaned by the cleaning fish. There I was, in the sea, with five sharks swimming below me... unreal and amazing!!!!
In exmouth we snorkled the inner reef, (coral bay was the outer reef), and saw more beautiful fish and coral. I then spent the next two days working hard on my sun tan, (dont worry factor 30+ was worn at all times), and then we headed back to Perth.
On the way back, we stopped off at the Hutt River Province. This is a seperate country, run by Prince lesley and princess shirley. he is a man who declared war on australia in the 1970s as the australian government tried to tell him how much wheat he could grow on his own land, and legitimately he declared his own country, and no longer pays tax in australia. We all had our passports stamped and everything! Our final stop before returning to the civilisation of perth was an animal rehab sanctuary, where i got to hold a baby kangaroo, and feed a whole group of kangaroos... it amazed me how soft they were!
After having seen mainly desert for a week, the city lights of perth were a welcome sight! So, back in perth I whiled away a few more days before heading to the red centre of australia, which to my surprise is in the northern territory of the country...
Saturday, 5 March 2011
Plettenberg Bay
There is a common misconception that the Garden Route goes from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth. it doesn't. It goes from Mossel Bay to Plettenberg Bay. So being 'stationed' in Plett for a month was no bad thing!
I was volunteering at an organisation called the ORCA foundation, which has three principles, that of conservation, research, and education. The length of time you are involved in the programme will determine which of these three things will dominate your time. A month menat that conservation was the are that I engaged with most.
Given that a lot of the activities depended on sea and wind conditions, the week did not have the same structure as a week at the game reserve. Although, as long as weather conditions permitted, monday mornings were usually spent at sea, looking for and photographing the dolphins in the area, of which there were three sorts, if my memoey serves me correctly, the common nose dolphins, the bottlenose dolphins and the humpback dolphins, and the whales, of which we were lucky enough to see the shy Bryde's whale. The photographs we took were then passed on to the reserach faction of the porganisation who used the photos to identify the animals we had seen.
We had the privilage of going out on the boat once with one of the researchers who wanted to get dna samples of these whales, by shooting them with a harpoon, and so taking a skin sample. Despite finding a whale, it was too illusive for us, and there was no good opportunity for the researcher to harpoon him/her. But nonetheless, it was an exciting day at sea!!!
Thursday mornings were spent at the township, giving over 130 children a lesson on the marine life in the sea, playing games, and singing songs. I wont complain about making a meal for even 20 people again! Feeding 130+ kids wevery day as the teachers do at that school is quite some feat,as we realsied when we had to dish out the food and wash up the plates afterwards!!
Much of the rest of the time was spent tending to the 150 seahorses that the foundation nurture into adulthood for various sea horse aquariums in the area. This is a big job, as the tanke require cleaning, water changing, and they require feeding, and each size sea horse requires a different type of food, so lots of time was spent wading around in rivers in Plett and Kynsna looking for the right kind and size of shrimp!
Another activity was to do a SASS evaluation, whereby the animal contents of rivers is marked against a scoring scheme, the higher the mark, the healthier the river. In addition to this, we planted over 200 trees at a farm to try and increase the number of indigenous plants in the area.
In addtion to all this 'work,' there was plenty of time for some fun too! We went to the elephant sanctuary, where we got the touch and ride the elephants bear back... I think the highlight for me was not so much the ride as being able to touch the trunk, which you may know is pure muscle, and therefore gives it a very interesting texture, particularly when it moves!
We went to Tenikwa, which is a rehab and education centre for african big cats and sea life such as seals, and we had a tour of the facility. The highlight, however, was to be able to take the cheetahs for a walk. We walked them for about two hours, during which time, these apparently lazy cats spent most of the time lying down, and admiring the view! it was here that I had my famous lick, by a large fully grown male! it happened too quickly to have been afraid, but afterwards, I realised that he could have bitten my arm off! Oh well, all in a day's work in Africa!!
We also went to do a n=walking tour of the Featherbed nature reserve in Knysna, so called, because after the rough seas, the sailors who arrived in Knysna said that sleeping in port there was like sleeping on a feather bed... FYI, there are no featherbeds at the reserve... only fabulous views overlooking the indian ocean!
One weekend, we went to Oudtshoorn, which is inland from the coast, and therefore about ten degrees hotter! there we went to the Cango Caves, Quad biking, the museum, the wildlife park, where, if you were so inclined you could cage dive with crocodiles... (i didnt), and admired the fabulous scenic drive throuhg various difrerent mountain passes. On the way to and from, we went to Wilderness, Mossel Bay, and George, and so, I thinkwe can honestly, we did the Garden Route!!
In addtion, of course, there was the famous bunjy junp! I went to that Bunjy jump in Tsitsikamma 4 times.. way too many times for someone who had no intention of jumping!! I did however, do a tree top canopy tour in the forest, and even managed to get to Storms River mouth, which I believe was a great achievement!
The month passed quickly, and all too soon, it was time to say good bye to the country i have been in longer than any other country outside the UK. Following an all too quick 'squiz' of Joburg, I flew to perth, Australia.
Leaving south africa, and the friends I made there, was like leaving home all over again. I have heard it said that Africa gets into your blood, and it is certainly true for me... I am not finished with that country, or that Continent! I will be back!!!
So, in three months in Africa, what did I learn?
Probably more than I realise at this stage of my travels.. but there are some things I'd like to mention here:
1) Lions do eat waterbuck... I have seen the remnants of their kill
2) Dolphins are toothed whales, and are Apex predators and will not necessarily be as helpful as Flipper in a crisis!
3) Contrary to the portrayal of Orcas in the film Free Willy, you will be better off being in the sea with a great white shark than a group of Orca Killer whales, who are lethal and unpicky hunters!
4) Seeing a leopard is a rare and amazing sight, let alone seeing one make a kill
5) Cheetahs are the most timid of the big cats.
6) Lions and elephants can mock charge and through careful handling of the situation be encourgaed to back off, whereas Buffalo are unpredicatable and give no signs of their changing mood. This makes them the most dangerous animal in the reserve.
7) Eucalyptus trees, although desert pklants in Australia, changed their behaviour in SA and suck up too much water, and are an alien species that needs to be controlled, and elliminated.
8) Now, Just Now and Now now are all various forms of later, ranging from 10 minutes later to never! The start if many an intersting conversation!
9) the 25th word of the book of genesis is Or, light, corresponding to the 25th of the hebrew month of Kislev, the start of the jewish festival of lights, chanukah
10) the hebrew word for 'to give' is natan, and in hebrew reads the same when read backwards and forwards, meaning that you receive even when you give, and give when you receive. For a living example of this, I have to thank the Port Elizabeth Hebrew Congreagation, who not only fed and sheltered me for the better part of three months, but also became my friends and my family. Those special people gave me a home, and they alone are reason enough for me to be planning my next African adventure... they as well as the fact that whale season is fast approaching!!! lol
I was volunteering at an organisation called the ORCA foundation, which has three principles, that of conservation, research, and education. The length of time you are involved in the programme will determine which of these three things will dominate your time. A month menat that conservation was the are that I engaged with most.
Given that a lot of the activities depended on sea and wind conditions, the week did not have the same structure as a week at the game reserve. Although, as long as weather conditions permitted, monday mornings were usually spent at sea, looking for and photographing the dolphins in the area, of which there were three sorts, if my memoey serves me correctly, the common nose dolphins, the bottlenose dolphins and the humpback dolphins, and the whales, of which we were lucky enough to see the shy Bryde's whale. The photographs we took were then passed on to the reserach faction of the porganisation who used the photos to identify the animals we had seen.
We had the privilage of going out on the boat once with one of the researchers who wanted to get dna samples of these whales, by shooting them with a harpoon, and so taking a skin sample. Despite finding a whale, it was too illusive for us, and there was no good opportunity for the researcher to harpoon him/her. But nonetheless, it was an exciting day at sea!!!
Thursday mornings were spent at the township, giving over 130 children a lesson on the marine life in the sea, playing games, and singing songs. I wont complain about making a meal for even 20 people again! Feeding 130+ kids wevery day as the teachers do at that school is quite some feat,as we realsied when we had to dish out the food and wash up the plates afterwards!!
Much of the rest of the time was spent tending to the 150 seahorses that the foundation nurture into adulthood for various sea horse aquariums in the area. This is a big job, as the tanke require cleaning, water changing, and they require feeding, and each size sea horse requires a different type of food, so lots of time was spent wading around in rivers in Plett and Kynsna looking for the right kind and size of shrimp!
Another activity was to do a SASS evaluation, whereby the animal contents of rivers is marked against a scoring scheme, the higher the mark, the healthier the river. In addition to this, we planted over 200 trees at a farm to try and increase the number of indigenous plants in the area.
In addtion to all this 'work,' there was plenty of time for some fun too! We went to the elephant sanctuary, where we got the touch and ride the elephants bear back... I think the highlight for me was not so much the ride as being able to touch the trunk, which you may know is pure muscle, and therefore gives it a very interesting texture, particularly when it moves!
We went to Tenikwa, which is a rehab and education centre for african big cats and sea life such as seals, and we had a tour of the facility. The highlight, however, was to be able to take the cheetahs for a walk. We walked them for about two hours, during which time, these apparently lazy cats spent most of the time lying down, and admiring the view! it was here that I had my famous lick, by a large fully grown male! it happened too quickly to have been afraid, but afterwards, I realised that he could have bitten my arm off! Oh well, all in a day's work in Africa!!
We also went to do a n=walking tour of the Featherbed nature reserve in Knysna, so called, because after the rough seas, the sailors who arrived in Knysna said that sleeping in port there was like sleeping on a feather bed... FYI, there are no featherbeds at the reserve... only fabulous views overlooking the indian ocean!
One weekend, we went to Oudtshoorn, which is inland from the coast, and therefore about ten degrees hotter! there we went to the Cango Caves, Quad biking, the museum, the wildlife park, where, if you were so inclined you could cage dive with crocodiles... (i didnt), and admired the fabulous scenic drive throuhg various difrerent mountain passes. On the way to and from, we went to Wilderness, Mossel Bay, and George, and so, I thinkwe can honestly, we did the Garden Route!!
In addtion, of course, there was the famous bunjy junp! I went to that Bunjy jump in Tsitsikamma 4 times.. way too many times for someone who had no intention of jumping!! I did however, do a tree top canopy tour in the forest, and even managed to get to Storms River mouth, which I believe was a great achievement!
The month passed quickly, and all too soon, it was time to say good bye to the country i have been in longer than any other country outside the UK. Following an all too quick 'squiz' of Joburg, I flew to perth, Australia.
Leaving south africa, and the friends I made there, was like leaving home all over again. I have heard it said that Africa gets into your blood, and it is certainly true for me... I am not finished with that country, or that Continent! I will be back!!!
So, in three months in Africa, what did I learn?
Probably more than I realise at this stage of my travels.. but there are some things I'd like to mention here:
1) Lions do eat waterbuck... I have seen the remnants of their kill
2) Dolphins are toothed whales, and are Apex predators and will not necessarily be as helpful as Flipper in a crisis!
3) Contrary to the portrayal of Orcas in the film Free Willy, you will be better off being in the sea with a great white shark than a group of Orca Killer whales, who are lethal and unpicky hunters!
4) Seeing a leopard is a rare and amazing sight, let alone seeing one make a kill
5) Cheetahs are the most timid of the big cats.
6) Lions and elephants can mock charge and through careful handling of the situation be encourgaed to back off, whereas Buffalo are unpredicatable and give no signs of their changing mood. This makes them the most dangerous animal in the reserve.
7) Eucalyptus trees, although desert pklants in Australia, changed their behaviour in SA and suck up too much water, and are an alien species that needs to be controlled, and elliminated.
8) Now, Just Now and Now now are all various forms of later, ranging from 10 minutes later to never! The start if many an intersting conversation!
9) the 25th word of the book of genesis is Or, light, corresponding to the 25th of the hebrew month of Kislev, the start of the jewish festival of lights, chanukah
10) the hebrew word for 'to give' is natan, and in hebrew reads the same when read backwards and forwards, meaning that you receive even when you give, and give when you receive. For a living example of this, I have to thank the Port Elizabeth Hebrew Congreagation, who not only fed and sheltered me for the better part of three months, but also became my friends and my family. Those special people gave me a home, and they alone are reason enough for me to be planning my next African adventure... they as well as the fact that whale season is fast approaching!!! lol
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